Sharm El Sheikh: Il mio primo viaggio all’estero

Viaggia per il mondo con poco budget, viaggia differente!!

Sharm El Sheikh: Il mio primo viaggio all’estero

Vorrei raccontarvi la mia prima esperienza da “viaggiatrice insicura,ma non troppo”. Mi spiego meglio: questo è stato il mio primo viaggio all’estero, all’età di 19 anni e, a causa di una serie di fattori tra cui la mia inesperienza, non è stata la vacanza che adesso (dopo soli 7 anni) farei. Questa è stata la scintilla che ha fatto ardere il mio spirito da viaggiatrice e sicuramente tornerei a visitare quei meravigliosi posti ma lo farei in modo diverso e spero di riuscire a farvi capire il perché.

La partenza e l’arrivo

Siamo partiti, io e il mio ragazzo, dall’aereoporto di Fiumicino: giovani, inesperti ma con tanta voglia di scoprire una nuova cultura. Purtroppo siamo subito caduti nella “trappola” dell’offerta all inclusive del Sierra Hotel (hotel a 5 stelle) ma, ripensandoci, non avremmo potuto fare molto di meglio essendo la nostra prima volta fuori dall’Italia. Dopo circa 4 ore di volo, arriviamo finalmente in Egitto dove subito capiamo che lì le cose funzionano in modo diverso rispetto a come siamo abituati. Infatti ci viene incontro un tizio dall’aspetto poco raccomandabile che ci chiede dove fossimo diretti; noi, un po’ titubanti, gli diciamo il nome dell’hotel e lui prontamente ci indirizza verso un piccolo autobus rassicurandoci che ci avrebbe portato a destinazione. Saliamo, paghiamo il prezzo del biglietto (50€ a testa, dati ad un altro tizio che ovviamente non ci ha dato né il biglietto né la fattura) e dopo non molto ci troviamo di fronte al cancello del nostro hotel. Il primo giorno della nostra vacanza lo abbiamo speso così, esplorando il Sierra Hotel, le sue otto piscine, la palestra, la Spa, il menù dei cuscini (vi giuro, non scherzo, c’era davvero), il ristorante e i vari bar.

Sierra Hotel
Sierra Hotel

Naama Bay

Il secondo giorno decidiamo di andare alla fine di Soho Square, la via che univa il nostro hotel e il Savoy, un altro resort di lusso. Sapevamo che lì avremmo trovato un taxi che, dopo le dovute trattative,ci avrebbe portato a Naama Bay (il centro nevralgico di Sharm El Sheikh). Faccio un piccolo appunto: in Egitto è consuetudine trattare sul prezzo di qualunque cosa, persino della tratta in taxi. Da quanto ho potuto capire questo fa parte del rapporto di fiducia che deve instaurarsi tra venditore e compratore. Arrivati a Naama Bay veniamo immediatamente avvicinati da ragazzo egiziano (Abdul) che ci invita a prendere un thé a casa sua e noi,ovviamente, accettiamo, sorpresi da tanta gentilezza. Tra un sorso di thé e una chiacchiera, alla fine capiamo il motivo di quell’invito: Abdul ci voleva convincere a partecipare ad alcuni degli svariati tour organizzati che lui pianificava per i turisti. Alla fine rimaniamo incuriositi da 3 di questi tour : gita con il quad nel deserto con giro in cammello incluso, snorkeling e visita ad Al Cairo e alle piramidi di Giza. Finite le trattative con Abdul per il prezzo delle escursioni organizzate, siamo usciti da casa sua e abbiamo continuato la visita di Naama Bay che ricordo essere stata un po’ deludente: una via piena di negozi, bar e abitanti del posto che cercavano a tutti i costi di venderci della droga. Decisamente molto turistica e poco autentica. La sera decidiamo di tornare in hotel e di cenare nel ristorante multietnico che la nostra offerta all inclusive ci offriva e che ogni giorno organizzava serate a tema con cibo ed intrattenimento di diverse culture ed etnie; le pietanza erano tutte molto, molto, molto speziate ma nel complesso buone.

Piccola curiosità: lasciando una piccola mancia all’interno della camera, gli addetti alla pulizia delle stanza sono soliti creare delle simpatiche figure con gli asciugamani.

Consiglio di viaggio: non allarmatevi dello stile di guida egiziano, lì evidentemente il codice della strada è un tantino differente rispetto al nostro (sempre ammettendo che esista). Se invece vivete a Napoli, lì potrete sentirvi finalmente a casa!

Il deserto tra quad e cammello

Il giorno successivo ci siamo alzati presto e abbiamo deciso di andare nella palestra dell’hotel dove abbiamo subito fatto amicizia con il personal trainer, Besho, un ragazzo davvero simpatico e alla mano. Poi bagno in piscina, pranzo al volo e ci siamo preparati per la nostra prima escursione: gita in quad nel deserto con annesso giro in cammello. Un piccolo autobus ha portato noi, altri clienti del Savoy e di altri hotel nelle vicinanze nel punto in cui sarebbe iniziata l’escursione. Lì gli organizzatori del tour ci hanno avvolto la testa in una kefiah ed hanno assegnato ad ogni coppia di turisti un quad. Purtroppo la nostra gita non è potuta iniziare subito perché il mio ragazzo è stato colto da un improvviso ed inaspettato attacco di diarrea (consiglio di viaggio, non bevete mai l’acqua a meno che non sia in bottiglia e attenzione anche ai cubetti di ghiaccio nei cocktail, altrimenti vivrete la stessa spiacevole esperienza). Ovviamente nei paraggi non c’era un bagno neanche a pagarlo oro e il mio ragazzo si è dovuto accontentare di espletare i suoi bisogni nel retro della struttura, tra i rottami di vecchi quad arrugginiti. Finalmente siamo partiti in sella ai nostri veicoli e, in fila come piccole formichine con a capo uno degli organizzatori, ci siamo finalmente addentrati nel deserto. Il paesaggio che di lì a poco ci si è parato davanti ci ha lasciati a bocca aperta: una vasta distesa di sabbia intervallata solamente da qualche brulla formazione rocciosa. Il senso di stupore che ci ha regalato la vista di quel paesaggio a noi così sconosciuto unito al senso di libertà generato dall’aria che ci scompigliava i capelli (inutile dire che in Egitto non è obbligatorio indossare il casco se guidi un quad) saranno sensazioni difficili da dimenticare. Infine, tra una duna ed un cadavere di cammello in decomposizione incontrato qui e là, arriviamo alla nostra meta: un insieme di tende dove dei beduini ci stavano aspettando. Subito ci fanno accomodare per terra,su dei cuscini posizionati sotto le tende, ci offrono del thè e poi a turno iniziamo a salire sul cammello. L’animale, tenuto alla corda da un ragazzino che non poteva avere più di 12 anni, aveva il compito di farci fare il giro di un piccolo perimetro recintato (sì, anche io quando ho sentito parlare di “cammellata nel deserto” mi ero aspettata qualcosina di più emozionante). Dopo che tutti avevano avuto modo di cavalcare l’esotico animale siamo risaliti sui quad tornando al punto di partenza, siamo risaliti sull’autobus alla volta del nostro hotel. Abbiamo poi passato la serata nel totale relax, commentando la giornata tra un tiro di shisha ed un cocktail.

Deserto
Deserto
Cammellata
“Cammellata”

Gita mancata al Cairo

Ebbene sì, con mia grande delusione sono andata in Egitto ma non sono riuscita a vedere il monumento simbolo dei questo bel Paese: le piramidi di Giza. Infatti quel giorno ci ha chiamato Abdul (il nostro organizzatore di escursioni) per dirci che tutti i voli per il Cairo erano stati annullati a causa di movimenti di protesta del popolo egiziano che si stavano tenendo proprio in quel periodo nella capitale (che poi sono culminati in un colpo di Stato attuato dall’esercito nazionale contro il Presidente Mohamed Morsi). La nostra gita consisteva in un volo andata e ritorno per la capitale, autobus per arrivare al sito archeologico di Giza, il biglietto di ingresso e un alloggio per la notte; infatti le due città distano circa 500 Km l’una dall’altra e quindi avremmo dovuto dormire al Cairo e ripartire per Sharm il giorno successivo. Ci viene detto che il costo dell’escursione ci sarebbe stato rimborsato (e ci è stato rimborsato veramente!!) e noi, decisamente delusi e amareggiati, decidiamo di andare nella spiaggia in fondo a Soho Square per rilassarci un po’ e per decidere che fare l’indomani. Appena arrivati capiamo subito che, anche in quel caso, la situazione era diversa rispetto a quanto siamo abituati: bagnasciuga inesistente e lunghe passerelle galleggianti sull’acqua. Questo perché, subito dopo la spiaggia sabbiosa, è presente un tratto di barriera corallina brulicante di vita. Incuriositi, subito ci svestiamo e percorriamo la passerella galleggiante, ammirando una varietà pesci tropicali dai colori sgargianti e dalle forme insolite. Una volta alla fine della piattaforma ci siamo tuffati nell’acqua cristallina e lì lo scenario è diventato un misto tra il fantastico e il surreale: banchi di pesci che non sembravano per nulla infastiditi dalla nostra presenza ci nuotavano intorno sinuosi, sfiorandoci e compiendo ipnotiche traiettorie in tutte le direzioni. Sullo sfondo, la barriera corallina che formava una parete verticale di almeno sei metri e sprofondava a picco verso il fondo del mare. Le parole non sono sufficienti a descrivere la magia di quel posto, a parer mio ci sono delle esperienza che non si possono raccontare, si devono vivere e basta.

Old Sharm

Il giorno successivo abbiamo finalmente deciso di andare alla scoperta della città vecchia e della cultura egiziana un po’ più autentica . Dico “finalmente” poiché ora, ad anni di distanza, mi domando perché non abbiamo deciso di farlo prima? E’ stato in quel momento che ho scoperto in me il desiderio di conoscere tutte le culture del mondo (o almeno quante più possibile). A Sharm vecchia abbiamo incontrato scenari piuttosto “pittoreschi”: anziani signori seduti davanti le loro botteghe che urlano cercando di farti comprare qualcosa, negozianti che quasi ti prendono sotto braccio pur di farti entrare nei loro colorati negozi “acchiappaturisti”, persone che cavalcano cammelli con la stessa nonchalance con la quale noi andiamo in bicicletta, vetrine di ristoranti che mettono in bella mostra il cibo tra sciami di mosche e gatti affamati. Insomma, un’atmosfera a dir poco particolare ma che in me ha suscitato una gran curiosità, non solo per la cultura egiziana ma anche per tutte le altre. Tappa obbligata per chi visita Old Sharm è sicuramente la grande moschea (Al Mustafa Mosque) e il mercato della città. Ripensandoci la nostra visita è stata troppo breve, frettolosa e superficiale; consiglio a tutti di non commettere il mio stesso errore e di dedicare più tempo a questa città per scoprire tutte le bellezze che riserva. Insomma, invece di passare una giornata all’interno dei resort, che a parer mio sono cattedrali di falsa magnificenza, è molto più appagante perdersi tra le vie di una città, parlare con la gente del luogo e, perché no, prendere qualche cantonata (d’altronde i grandi Hotel di lusso non vi stanno già raggirando?).

Consigli di viaggio: per i fumatori, le stecche di sigarette non costano veramente nulla a Old Sharm (circa 15€, a seconda della marca) ma abbiate l’accortezza di aprire l’imballaggio prima di lasciare il negozio. A me hanno cercato di rifilare una steccha di piccoli sigari col filtro invece delle sigarette. Inoltre cercate di trattare sul prezzo di qualsiasi cosa (sigarette, shisha, abiti, kefiah…), se sarete bravi e tenaci potrebbe scendere del 50% o anche più.

Snorkeling

La nostra ultima escursione è iniziata su un battello attraccato non lontano dal nostro hotel. Una volta saliti tutti a bordo, siamo salpati verso il mare aperto ed anche lì devo ammettere che il paesaggio mi ha lasciato senza fiato: una vasta distesa d’acqua di un acceso colore blu contornata da un brullo paesaggio arido e sabbioso. Il mare quel giorno era piuttosto calmo ma nonostante ciò ho visto una signora, verdastra in volto, vomitare l’anima in un secchio; quindi se soffrite di mal di mare pensateci bene prima di intraprendere questo tour organizzato. Siamo poi arrivati alla prima tappa: la barca si è fermata nel bel mezzo del nulla e gli organizzatori hanno dato ad ognuno un giubbotto salvagente, una maschera e un boccaglio e ci hanno invitati a tuffarci in acqua. Abbiamo nuotato per un breve tratto e finalmente siamo arrivati alla meta. Immergendoci ci si è parato davanti un tratto di barriera corallina con tutto l’ecosistema che vi ruota intorno: coralli,alghe colorate, pesci sgargianti,spugne di mare e altri animali di cui non conosco nemmeno il nome. Ed era tutto lì, ad un metro dalla superficie del mare, talmente vicino da poterlo toccare con mano. Anche se avevo già avuto un assaggio di quello spettacolo nella spiaggia dell’hotel solo qualche giorno prima, la meraviglia che mi ha suscitato è stata comunque indescrivibile. So di essere ripetitiva ma fidatevi, E’ UN CA**O DI SPETTACOLO!! Comunque dopo un po’ siamo risaliti in barca, siamo ripartiti e abbiamo fatto altre due immersioni in punti diversi. Questa gita è stata talmente divertente che solo una volta tornata in hotel mi sono accorta che, a forza di stare a faccia in giù sul pelo dell’acqua, mi ero procurata un’ustione micidiale su tutta la superficie posteriore del corpo. E così,rossa come in gambero ma felice, mi sono preparata ad affrontare l’ultima serata di quella splendida vacanza.

Consiglio di viaggio: crema solare,protezione 50,a secchi.

Barriera corallina, Snorkeling
Barriera corallina, Snorkeling

Conclusione

Con il racconto della mia prima esperienza di viaggio all’estero spero di essere riuscita a trasmettervi due concetti che mi stanno molto a cuore. Il primo è l’amore per il viaggio, la voglia di scoprire tutte le sfaccettature di questo bellissimo mondo e di come tutto ciò è nato in me. Il secondo è che, per cercare di capire usi e costumi di una popolazione, non ci si può rinchiudere dentro un villaggio turistico. Io purtroppo, a causa della mia inesperienza, in quell’occasione ho lasciato poco spazio alla scoperta della vera cultura egiziana. Ma ho già capito che non posso vivere con questo rimpianto. Infatti ho deciso che in un futuro,spero prossimo, tornerò in Egitto e farò due cose: cercherò di carpire quanto più possibile delle loro tradizioni ed andrò finalmente a vedere le piramidi (dai, come si fa a dire di essere stati in Egitto senza aver visto le piramidi??).

Riepilogo costi

  • Visto d’ingresso = 20€
  • Hotel Sierra (offerta soft all inclusive per 7 notti) = 560€
  • Navetta dall’aeroporto all’hotel (andata e ritorno) = 50€
  • Motorata con quad nel deserto + giro in cammello = 40€
  • Snorkeling = 50€

Tutti i prezzi sopra riportati sono per una persona.

 

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