Marsiglia in 3 giorni

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Marsiglia in 3 giorni

Avete presente quando aprite l’applicazione della Ryanair così, un pò per caso, ma poi trovate quel volo ad un prezzo così basso che decidete di acquistarlo immediatamente? Bhè, è così che è iniziato il mio viaggio a Marsiglia.

La partenza e l’arrivo

Io ed altri 3 amici siamo partiti da Roma (Ciampino) alla fine di Novembre. Troppo poveri per andare a Parigi, Marsiglia ci sembrava un’ottima alternativa per scoprire le bellezze della Francia. Informandoci su Wikipedia avevamo letto che è la più grande città della Francia meridionale, il primo porto del Paese, una delle più antiche città francesi…insomma siamo arrivati pieni di aspettative. Atterriamo nell’aeroporto Marseille Provence e già da lì il nostro viaggio si fa impegnativo. Non riuscendo a capire come raggiungere il nostro appartamento abbiamo chiesto aiuto ad un autista di autobus e questo ci ha risposto che il modo più veloce era di andare alla stazione e prendere il treno che ci avrebbe portato alla stazione centrale, in centro città. O almeno questo è quello che abbiamo capito noi. Purtroppo a Marsiglia abbiamo trovato pochissime persone che parlassero in inglese e la nostra comprensione del francese era pessima. Comunque ci siamo incamminati e dopo buoni 20 minuti di scarpinata siamo arrivati alla stazione per poi scoprire che il treno che ci avrebbe portato a destinazione non sarebbe passato prima di un’ora e mezza. Quel giorno pioveva e così abbiamo deciso di rifugiarci nel bar di un hotel lì vicino. Caffè, sigaretta, bagno, un po’ di riposo e poi siamo tornati alla stazione. Il treno ha impiegato circa mezz’ora per arrivare in centro città ma alla fine ce l’avevamo fatta, eravamo arrivati. Visto che non potevamo fare subito il check-in nell’appartamento decidiamo di andarci a fare una passeggiata sul lungomare, dove c’erano dei mercatini natalizi. Niente di eccezionale ma,vi giuro, non ho mai visto tante saponette tutte insieme (ovviamente sapone di Marsiglia). Ormai stufi, abbiamo deciso di andare in appartamento per posare i bagagli e darci una rinfrescata. Il nostro alloggio era proprio in centro città, in un vecchio e fatiscente palazzo, tutt’altro che bello ma (per quello che l’avevamo pagato) comunque meglio di quello che ci saremmo aspettati. Ci siamo sistemati al volo e subito siamo ripartiti, emozionati, per esplorare i dintorni. Dopo non molto ci si è parata dinanzi un scomoda verità: Marsiglia è una città decadente, mal tenuta e piena di tizi loschi. Ma non ci siamo certo persi d’animo e, con la saggezza che solo molti anni di dedizione all’alcool ti possono dare, abbiamo deciso di andare in un negozio a comprare vino,birra e qualche schifezza da mangiare; abbiamo portato la spesa nel nostro appartamento convinti che, dopo la giusta dose di alcool, anche quella città sarebbe sembrata più bella. Già dignitosamente brilli decidiamo di andare alla scoperta della movida e ci siamo infilati in un pub a tracannare boccali di birra. Lì facciamo conoscenza con due ragazze del posto (che chiameremo Anna e Maria) decisamente alla mano, che parlavano fluentemente l’inglese e con la stessa nostra voglia di far festa. Nello stesso pub abbiamo anche incontrato un anziano signore che ci provava spudoratamente (ovviamente in francese) e un ragazzo di Marsiglia che, appena capita la nostra nazionalità, ci ha iniziato a parlare in un discreto dialetto romano (il padre a quanto pare aveva lavorato molti anni a Roma e aveva trasmesso al figlio la passione per la Roma e per Totti). Ci siamo intrattenuti per un po’ con i nostri nuovi amici ma ad un certo punto iniziamo ad aver bisogno di smaltire l’alcool e chiediamo se ci sia un locale per ballare nelle vicinanze. Prontamente Anna e Maria ci hanno snocciolato una serie di locali dicendo che loro stesse sarebbero a breve andate in uno di questi, Le Molotov e se volevamo unirci a loro. Noi accettiamo ben volentieri l’offerta perché si sa, a far festa più si è meglio è, e dopo una breve sosta al Mc Donald’s ci siamo avviati tutti e sei verso il locale. Parlando con Anna e Maria abbiamo scoperto che la città, un tempo fiore all’occhiello della Provenza, era mano mano andata in decadenza un po’ per l’errata gestione economica dei fondi un po’ per la struttura intrinseca della città. Ci è stato infatti spiegato che Marsiglia è stata spesso scenario di crolli di edifici causa pioggia. Sì,avete capito bene, pioggia. Alcune strutture (anche abitative o lavorative) erano state costruite talmente male ed avevano avuto così poca manutenzione da essere crollate sotto il solo insulto di un temporale. Finalmente arrivati al locale paghiamo 10€ per l’ingresso e ci dirigiamo subito al bancone per consumare qualche shot di vodka al caramello (buonissima) giusto per non far scendere la sbronza. Già all’entrata avevamo capito che il locale era tutt’altro che “chic” e arrivati alla pista da ballo ce ne viene data la conferma: la clientela era molto simile a quella che si può incontrare in un rave party e la musica pure. Insomma, una figata pazzesca! Dopo un po’ i litri di birra bevuti si iniziano a far sentire e decido di andare al bagno insieme alle altre ragazze e lì, proprio mentre ero sulla toilette, mi viene gentilmente offerta della cocaina dalle ragazze marsigliesi che stavano pippando affianco a me (che ho educatamente rifiutato). Abbiamo ballato per qualche ora e, proprio quando avevamo deciso di tornare nel nostro appartamento, notiamo che all’ingresso c’erano due poliziotti in divisa che non permettevano a nessuno di uscire dal locale. La ragazza addetta ai biglietti ci ha detto che quello era un controllo di routine per il volume della musica; una scusa poco credibile, quei poliziotti stavano evidentemente cercando gli spacciatori all’interno del locale e infatti dopo una mezz’ora li vediamo scortare fuori due ragazzi decisamente affranti. Alla fine riusciamo ad uscire e, un po’ a malincuore, salutiamo le nostre compagne di serata; tornati in appartamento siamo stramazzati sul letto, stanchi ma felici della divertente serata appena trascorsa.

Dopo la sbronza, un po’ di cultura

Il giorno seguente abbiamo deciso di visitare tutto quello che Marsiglia aveva da offrire (ben poco a dire il vero) e alla buon ora ci siamo incamminati nelle vie della città, solo leggermente scoraggiati della pioggia che quel giorno sembrava non voler cessare. Iniziamo con la cattedrale di Santa Maria Maggiore, un grande edificio in stile neobizantino situato vicino la costa e con il pavimento interamente costituito la mosaici.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Maggiore
Cattedrale di Santa Maria Maggiore

Abbiamo poi deciso di incamminarci verso Palais Longchamp ma lungo la strada rimaniamo sbigottiti nell’assistere al pestaggio di un ragazzo proprio nella strada che porta all’importante monumento. Quindi i tizi dall’aspetto poco raccomandabile che vedevamo in giro per la città erano veramente poco raccomandabili, non erano solamente pregiudizi! Scherzi a parte, consiglio a chi decidesse di andare a visitare Marsiglia di non camminare per le vie della città con la testa fra le nuvole, neanche nelle vie principali, e di buttare sempre un occhio a quello che accade intorno. Tornando a Palais Longchamp, questo è un bell’edificio con un colonnato elegante che circonda un’imponente fontana.

Palais Longchamp
Palais Longchamp
Fontana del palazzo
Fontana del palazzo

Dopo la pausa pranzo a base di escargot (non l’avrei mai detto ma questi francesi sanno come cucinare le lumache!) e un piatto di riso e pesce, riprendiamo la nostra visita dirigendoci verso Notre Dame de la Garde ma, lungo la strada ci siamo imbattuti quasi per caso in uno dei quartieri più caratteristici di Marsiglia: Le Panier. Questo è uno dei più vecchi quartieri della città, ora molto famoso anche per le opere di street art che è possibile ammirare quasi in ogni edificio.

Murales
Murales
Murales
Murales
Le Panier
Le Panier

Dopo esserci persi per un po’ nei vicoli colorati, abbiamo ripreso la nostra scalata verso Notre Dame de la Garde, cattedrale situata nel punto più alto della città (circa 160 metri sul livello del mare). L’edificio è maestoso,all’interno la cattedrale è sfavillante con il suo soffitto dorato e le pareti adorne di bellissimi mosaici. Inoltre tutto intorno corre una balconata dalla quale è possibile ammirate,sotto di voi, la città con il mare sullo sfondo; una vista incantevole soprattutto se,come noi, decidete di rimanere fino al tramonto.

Notre Dame de la Garde
Notre Dame de la Garde
Marsiglia al tramonto
Marsiglia al tramonto

Abbiamo poi deciso di tornare nella zona del porto per un aperitivo veloce per poi andare a mangiare. Il ristorante che abbiamo scelto per la nostra ultima cena a Marsiglia si trovava non lontano dal nostro appartamento ed arrivati lì, già mezzi brilli dall’aperitivo, ordiniamo altre due o tre bottiglie di vino bianco (sinceramente il cibo neanche me lo ricordo). Ormai decisamente ubriachi ci siamo avviati alla cassa per pagare ma prima decido di andare alla toilette; lì mi accorgo che nel bagno, proprio accanto al lavandino,c’è una porticina semiaperta. Troppo incuriosita decido di aprirla e mi ritrovo in un piccolo magazzino buio, pieno di bottiglie. Gli occhi mi si illuminano e, in un lampo di genio, decido di prendere due bottiglie di vino e di infilarle nello zainetto e, con la coordinazione che solo l’avere una bottiglia di vino in circolo ti può conferire, mi cade tutto dalle mani con un fracasso non indifferente. Controllo che i miei trofei di guerra siano ancora integri nello zainetto, esco dal bagno e dal locale (sempre cercando di non far tintinnare le bottiglie) e racconto tutto ai miei amici. Fine della storia, ce ne siamo andati dal ristorante con 2 bottiglie di vino bianco, una di champagne e una di Aperol Spritz. Sì, lo so, questo gesto si chiama furto e rubare è brutto oltre ad essere un reato ma bisogna contestualizzare: quattro ragazzi ubriachi con la voglia di far festa, un magazzino di alcolici nel bagno del ristorante, non chiuso a chiave. Questo per me si chiama istigazione al furto! Abbiamo continuato a girare per la città per un po’, tracannandoci le suddette bottiglie, cercando un posto dove andare a ballare. Ma poi ci si para davanti la verità: è domenica notte e mai avremmo trovato una discoteca aperta! Ma qual’è il problema? Siamo tornati in appartamento, abbiamo “sciabolato” lo champagne dalla finestra con un coltello da pane trovato in cucina e abbiamo messo la musica con il cellulare et voilà, le disco est fait! Morale della storia, il nostro amico è finito in bagno a vomitarsi sui pantaloni.

L’indomani avevamo il volo di ritorno alle 09.20 e vi lascio solo immaginare in che condizioni siamo saliti su quell’aereo.

Conclusioni

Tirando le somme, Marsiglia non è una di quelle città francesi eleganti e raffinate che noi tutti ci aspettavamo ma in compenso lì abbiamo trovato tutte persone gentili e disponibile che, nonostante l’ostacolo della lingua (pochissimi francesi parlano inglese, soprattutto gli adulti), hanno cercato sempre di aiutarci. Purtroppo la città non è molto economica, i prezzi di bar e ristoranti sono molto simili a quelli del centro di una città italiana. Concludendo, secondo me Marsiglia non merita una visita di più di due giorni ed inoltre vi consiglio di andarci solamente se trovate un volo a basso costo (come abbiamo fatto noi). Insomma, se proprio volete spendere un patrimonio, almeno andatevene a Parigi,no?

Riepilogo costi

  • Volo A/R = 30€
  • 2 notti in appartamento = 26€
  • Pinta di birra (prezzo medio) = 5-6€
  • Pasto ad un ristorante medio = 25-30€

 

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