Puglia 2020 : ‘o sole, ‘o mare, ‘o Covid (Parte 1)

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Puglia 2020 : ‘o sole, ‘o mare, ‘o Covid (Parte 1)

Di certo il 2020 non è iniziato nel migliore dei modi e noi viaggiatori insicuri abbiamo visto sfumare tanti progetti di viaggio, ma non ci siamo arresi. Ovviamente l’estero era off-limits (troppo rischioso) e così abbiamo colto la palla al balzo: quale estate migliore se non quella del 2020 per andare alla riscoperta nel nostro Bel paese? Perfetto, si parte,direzione Puglia!

L’arrivo a Brindisi

Di tante belle regioni,vi chiederete, perché proprio la Puglia? La risposta è meno filosofica di quanto vi aspettiate: una nostra amica, originaria di Brindisi, aveva la casa libera nel periodo di Agosto e si è gentilmente offerta di ospitarci. E così l’8 Agosto, in 5 dentro una macchina, siamo partiti con direzione Brindisi e con tanta voglia di spulciarla per bene questa Puglia.

Dopo circa 6 ore di viaggio siamo arrivati a destinazione e, dopo aver sistemato le nostre cose e aver fatto una bella doccia, usciamo per le vie di Brindisi in esplorazione. Devo dire che è una cittadina veramente bella: collocata su un’insenatura naturale della costa che ospita il porto e con la classica architettura pugliese, offre un’atmosfera e degli scorci veramente suggestivi.

Da non perdere il lungomare Regina Margherita (dal quale è possibile ammirare il Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia), le colonne di epoca romana che segnano la fine della Via Appia, il Duomo di Brindisi, il tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro (particolare perché è una chiesetta con base circolare). Dopo aver visitato la città decidiamo di tornare sul lungomare a fare un tranquillo aperitivo ma questo alla fine si è trasformato in un aperitivo, una cena e una sbornia serale in tempo di record. Orgogliosamente storditi e soddisfatti per la giornata piena ed intensa, siamo poi tornati a casa per concederci una dormita, già proiettati però ai nostri piani per il giorno successivo.

Porto Cesareo e Torre Lapillo

Il secondo giorno ci siamo svegliati, non troppo alla buonora vista la serata appena trascorsa, e ci siamo messi subito in viaggio: direzione Porto Cesareo. Abbiamo avuto un assaggio di ciò che ci aspettava già in macchina, infatti nell’ultimo tratto di strada (usciti dalla comodissima superstrada pugliese) c’era un po’ di traffico e anche trovare un parcheggio di fortuna non è stato semplice. Arriviamo finalmente in prossimità della spiaggia, con gli ombrelloni in spalla e gli asciugamani attorno al collo (neanche morti avremmo pagato un lido attrezzato) e subito capiamo il perché del traffico: tutta la spiaggia era una distesa di ombrelloni e persone accalcate a perdita d’occhio.

Facciamo lo slalom in mezzo alla folla iniziamo a camminare sul bagnasciuga, sperando di trovare un fazzoletto di sabbia libero dove piantare i nostri ombrelloni. Alla fine ci siamo accontentati di comprimerci nell’unico spazio libero degno di essere chiamato tale e siamo subito andati a farci il bagno, sperando di avere un po’ di sollievo dal senso di oppressione. E invece no, anche in acqua c’era un marasma di persone e la situazione era tutt’altro che rilassante. Raccogliamo tutte le nostre cose, mangiamo un boccone al volo, torniamo alla macchina e decidiamo di spostarci in una spiaggia lì vicino: Torre Lapillo.

Qui finalmente abbiamo trovato ciò che cercavamo: tranquillità, un bel paesaggio ed un mare limpidissimo. A Torre Lapillo la spiaggia non è sabbiosa ma costituita da scogli aguzzi e taglienti (caratteristica comune a molte spiagge pugliesi, quindi vi consiglio di attrezzarvi di ciabatte robuste e resistenti) ma, una volta trovato un posto comodo dove sdraiarsi, la vista è davvero bella: la torre sembra germogliare dagli scogli, si staglia su un mare cristallino e crea bellissimi riflessi sulle pozza d’acqua lasciate dall’alta marea. Ci siamo cimentati nell’arte della pesca e poi tuffati in acqua, abbiamo goduto della vista del bel fondale e ci siamo crogiolati al sole, aspettando il tramonto. Attesa che è stata ampiamente ripagata dalla vista di quel panorama tinto dalle sfumature del rosso e del viola.

Torre Lapillo

Torre dell’Orso e Grotta della Poesia

Il terzo giorno decidiamo di dedicarlo ancora alle bellezze naturali della regione e partiamo alla volta della località Torre dell’Orso. Una volta arrivati ci siamo resi conto che, ancora una volta, avremmo dovuto lottare contro una spiaggia formata da bellissimi, bianchissimi ma temibili scogli. E quel giorno abbiamo avuto il primo caduto, nel senso letterale del termine: un mio amico è caduto rovinosamente davanti a tutti, scivolando sulle rocce rese viscide dall’acqua e dalla salsedine. Tra una risata e un bestemmia troviamo facilmente un posto dove mettere le nostre cose, non essendo la spiaggia molto affollata.

Quel giorno il mare era un po’ mosso e visto che le onde si infrangevano direttamente su quegli scogli appuntiti la maggior parte di noi ha deciso di non tuffarsi in mare aperto. Fortunatamente ci è venuta in soccorso la morfologia del terreno. Infatti, in alcuni punti della spiaggia, il tempo e l’erosione dell’acqua hanno creato delle belle piscine naturali dove le persone meno temerarie possono comunque godersi un bel bagno rinfrescante. Dopo un pranzo al sacco con la famosa focaccia pugliese (davvero buonissima) siamo tornati in macchina e siamo partiti per la tappa successiva.

Arriviamo alla Grotta della Poesia alla 16 circa e all’ingresso veniamo informati che quell’anno l’ingresso è a pagamento ed il costo è di 3€; ma tutto ciò solo fino alle 17, poi l’entrata sarebbe stata gratuita. Volete provare ad indovinare cosa abbiamo fatto? Siamo andati al bar più vicino a farci le birre fino alle 17,ovviamente!

Alle 17.01 oltrepassiamo il cancello pronti a goderci la vista della famosa grotta, che consiste in un tratto di scogliera a picco sull’ acqua azzurra, crollata a formare una voragine circolare in comunicazione con il mare. Purtroppo anche quel giorno ci aspettava un’amara sorpresa. Quel fantastico luogo (un tempo frequentato da pochissima gente) a causa dell’emergenza Covid e della pubblicità fattagli da Instagram, era un brulicare di persone. Accalcate lungo il ciglio della voragine e dentro la piscina naturale che essa forma c’erano a dir poco 200 persone, tutte evidentemente incuranti del rischio di crolli e della pandemia globale in atto. Per questo ci accontentiamo di rimanere in disparte e di sfruttare una specie di scalinata naturale formata da scogli per tuffarci in quel mare così bello, ad una cinquantina di metri dalla grotta.

Vicino la Grotta della Poesia

La sera poi siamo andati a Lecce, a casa di alcuni ragazzi pugliesi conosciuti tramite l’amica che ci ha ospitati. Tra un bicchiere di vino, una passeggiata e qualche cocktail nel centro storico della città, abbiamo iniziato a pianificare la giornata successiva.

Ostuni e Gallipoli

Sabato mattina, ci alziamo trepidanti di vivere la giornata che ci eravamo programmati: giornata ad Ostuni, aperitivo e serata in una delle città italiane più famose per la nightlife, Gallipoli.

La mattinata l’abbiamo trascorsa tra le splendide viuzze della cittadina di Ostuni che, come molte altre città pugliesi, ha un centro storico interamente dipinto di bianco. Infatti in passato era usanza tinteggiare gli edifici con calce bianca (forse un po’ per contrastare le varie epidemie di peste e un po’ per combattere il caldo estivo). A ora di pranzo abbiamo iniziato ad accusare sia il caldo che la stanchezza e ci siamo fermati a mangiare un ottimo piatto di pasta e qualche bottiglia di vino in un ristorantino economico (che troverete citato nella sezione “Dove mangiare e bere in Puglia”). Poi, circa a metà pomeriggio, siamo tornati a Brindisi per prepararci alla serata che ci aspettava.

Ostuni

Siamo presto ripartiti verso Kilometro Zero, il locale che avevamo scelto per il nostro aperitivo, che si trova a Galatone (un comune a metà strada tra Sant’Isidoro e Gallipoli). Il bar di per sé è piccolo ma si trova proprio sulla spiaggia, è piuttosto isolato e permette di prendere da bere, uscire e godere della vista del tramonto con la musica di sottofondo, i piedi nella sabbia e uno spritz in mano.

Ma la serata non poteva e non doveva finire lì e così rieccoci di nuovo in macchina: direzione Gallipoli. Non vi sto ad annoiare sul traffico incontrato e sulle difficoltà nel trovare parcheggio. Infatti arrivati finalmente in centro ci siamo resi conto che era una babilonia e che per poter camminare bisognava fare lo slalom tra le persone. Ci mettiamo alla ricerca di un locale sulla spiaggia dove poter bere qualcosa e magari ballare un po’ ma ben presto capiamo che di locali così non ne avremmo mai trovati. A quanto pare a Gallipoli o si va nelle discoteche super affollate o si va nella parte alta della città e ci si prende qualcosa seduti al bar. Vista la pandemia la seconda opzione ci sembrava più allettante e così abbiamo contattato alcuni amici romani che erano in vacanza lì, abbiamo trovato un locale e (tanto per cominciare) abbiamo ordinato una bottiglia da 1 litro di gin e varie bottigliette di acqua tonica e limonata. Vi lascio immaginare come sia finita la serata.

Abbiamo fatto l’obbligatoria tappa delle 4 del mattino al paninaro più vicino, abbiamo salutato i nostri compagni di serata e siamo tornati alla macchina. Ovviamente nessuno era in grado di guidare fino a Brindisi e infatti l’idea era quella di fermarci a dormire in macchina finché qualcuno non si sarebbe ripreso. Il problema è che eravamo in 5, dentro un’Alfa Romeo Giulietta. Pessima idea. Dopo una crisi di risate isteriche per l’assurdità della situazione io e un mio amico decidiamo di andarci a fare una camminata cosicché almeno gli altri avrebbero potuto dormire qualche ora.

Devo dire che è stata veramente una scelta azzeccata perché abbiamo potuto fare una di quelle belle e profonde chiacchierate tra ubriachi alle luci dell’alba, seduti al porto di Gallipoli, di fianco ad un vecchio pescatore intento a sistemare la sua rete. Una scena davvero pittoresca che avrei tanto voluto immortalare con una foto, se solo fossi stata sufficientemente sobria da rendermene conto!

Mesagne

Ovviamente siamo tornati da Gallipoli a Brindisi in condizioni pietose e quel giorno abbiamo dormito fino a tardi. Nel pomeriggio ci siamo rilassati un po’ su una spiaggia di Brindisi e per cenare e trascorrere la serata abbiamo deciso di spostarci nella vicina Mesagne. Qui abbiamo mangiato in uno dei pub migliori che io abbia mai provato (per ulteriori informazioni guardare la sezione “Dove mangiare e bere in Puglia”) e abbiamo poi trascorso una deliziosa serata con un’aggraziata, perspicace e sobria aspirante influencer. Chi c’era sa quanto ho amato quella serata!

 

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