Serbia, non solo bombe e alcool… (Parte 2)

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Serbia, non solo bombe e alcool… (Parte 2)

serbia

In un precedente articolo vi abbiamo parlato di cosa vedere nella capitale della Serbia. Ma è arrivato il momento di lasciarci alle spalle Belgrado, salire su qualche autobus mezzo rotto su cui qualche vecchietta ci offrirà qualcosa da mangiare, e di andare a visitare le altre mete che questo stato ha da offrirci.

Nis

Se si prende un comodo autobus della compagnia Nis-Express serviranno circa tre ore per coprire i 250 km che separano Nis da Belgrado. Questa città, situata non lontana dal confine con la Bulgaria, certo non è la meta più ambita del mondo, ma non per questo non merita una visita.

Tranquilli, il comodo autobus Nis-Express è quello rosso sullo sfondo
Tranquilli, il comodo autobus Nis-Express è quello rosso sullo sfondo

La prima attrazione della città di cui vi voglio parlare è riservata solo agli stomaci più forti. Dovete infatti sapere che nel 1809, a seguito della prima rivolta serba, gli ottomani fecero costruire una torre che incorpora teschi umani (in serbo Cele Kula). Ma non è che ce ne misero 2 o 3 eh, originariamente ce ne erano ben 952, anche se oggi se ne contano “solo” 58.
La torre, attorno alla quale è stata costruita una cappella, è visitabile gratuitamente.

Fortunatamente la torre con i teschi non è l’unico lascito dell’occupazione ottomana in Serbia. Non è infatti possibile non citare la fortezza di Nis (Niška tvrđava), uno dei più importanti avamposti turchi nei balcani.

All’interno della fortezza, che sorge sul fiume destro del fiume Nisava, sono presenti numerosi reperti storici di rilevante importanza. Tra i più importanti si ricordano i bagni turchi, la mosche di Bali-Bey e la residenza del Pasha.

La città di Nis è stata naturalmente toccata anche dalla storia più recente. Un’esempio più che lampante è il campo di concentramento della Croce Rossa.

Il campo, oggi ristrutturato per renderlo più simile possibile a quello che era un tempo, veniva utilizzato come campo di passaggio per i prigionieri che dovevano essere trasferiti nei campi più grandi. Questo non vuol dire che chi passava di qui fosse esente dalle efferatezze che avvenivano negli altri campi. Infatti di ben 35 mila persone che passarono di qui ben 10 mila non tornarono mai più alla libertà.

Tara National Park

Il monte Tara è una montagna situata al confine tra Serbia e Bosnia-Erzegovina, è conosciuto anche con il nome di “Polmoni della Serbia”. Qui, nel 1981 venne istituito un parco nazionale che ad oggi rappresenta un’oasi incontaminata al riparo dalla cementificazione selvaggia e casa di una parte importante della flora e della fauna di questo stato.

Il tour di cui ho fatto parte io si è svolto interamente in territorio serbo. Qui, prima di addentrarci nella foresta, abbiamo potuto visitare alcuni monasteri. Dopo qualche ora di camminata completamente immersi nella natura siamo arrivati in un punto panoramico da cui abbiamo potuto godere di una vista fantastica. Inoltre qui abbiamo potuto far riposare i nostri polmoni ormai lacerati.

Punto panoramico del "Tara National Park"
Punto panoramico del “Tara National Park”

La nostra camminata è proseguita fino alla casa di una coppia di anziani contadini dove, dopo aver giocato un po’ con i loro animali, abbiamo acquistato una bottiglia da un litro di rakija (parleremo della gastronomia serba in un altro articolo ancora). Una volta lasciata la casa dei contadini abbiamo incontrato lungo il percorso delle sorgenti d’acqua freschissima, di cui però non ricordo il nome!

Dopo esserci persi per un’oretta nel bosco abbiamo preso la strada del ritorno, la quale prevedeva un’ultima tappa, la più particolare della giornata, la casa costruita sul fiume Drina (Kucica na Drini), reso celebre dal famosissimo scrittore Ivo Andric.

Avete letto bene. Costruita sopra il fiume. Questa particolare abitazione è stata costruita nel 1968 quando un gruppo di giovani ragazzi decise di aver bisogno di un posto da cui godersi comodamente il sole. Quindi decisero di costruire la casa proprio sull’imponente fiume Drina. Un’altra caratteristica di questa attrazione è che si trova esattamente sul confine tra Bosnia-Erzegovina e Serbia, anche se la sua proprietà viene da tutti attribuita a quest’ultima.

La casa sul fiume Drina
La casa sul fiume Drina

Novi Sad

Seconda città più popolosa della Serbia e capitale della provincia autonoma della Voivodina. Se si visita il paese balcanico, Novi Sad è una meta che non può mancare.

Situata verso i confini settentrionali del paese, questa è sempre stata una città di frontiera, e come tutte le città di frontiera ha subito numerose invasioni, le quali hanno portato, tra le altre cose, diversi tipi di architettura e cultura.

Monumento simbolo della città è sicuramente la fortezza di Petrovaradin, la cui costruzione è stata completata nel 1752, eretta per ostacolare l’avanzata ottomana nella zona. Oggi sorveglia le tranquille acque del Danubio. Essa è una delle principali fortezze europee estendendosi per 12 ettari e nascondendo ben 16 km di tunnel!

Scusate, lo so che fa schifo, ma è l'unica foto rimasta di Novi Sad
Scusate, lo so che fa schifo, ma è l’unica foto rimasta di Novi Sad

Se all’interno della torre notate una torre che segna l’ora sbagliata state tranquilli, non siete voi ad essere ubriachi (o almeno non solo voi), ma è l’orologio! Esso infatti monta le lancette al contrario, con quella più lunga per le ore e quella più corta per i minuti.
Non provate ad utilizzare questa stranezza per barare sulle vostre prestazioni sessuali, nessuno confonderà 1 ora per 5 minuti!

Anche se non siete molto interessati alla storia e all’architettura Novi Sad può essere la città che fa per voi! Qui infatti si tiene dal 2000 l’EXIT FESTIVAL, un festival di musica elettronica che nel 2019 ha ospitato ben 200.000 visitatori!

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