Una settimana tra Lisbona e Porto

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Una settimana tra Lisbona e Porto

Indice

Avventura prima della partenza

Il Portogallo è un paese che ho sempre sognato di visitare, ho purtroppo però dovuto sempre rimandare quest’esperienza a causa dei costi del biglietto aereo, spesso proibitivi (almeno per me, probabilmente non per gli altri).
In mio aiuto è venuta però la fortuna. Un giorno, appena scopro di avere una settimana abbondante libera dal lavoro, mi metto alla ricerca di qualche volo a buon prezzo su internet, ed eccolo! Ciampino-Lisbona e Oporto-Ciampino a soli 70€!
Naturalmente prenoto immediatamente e inizio a prepararmi, dato che la partenza è due giorni dopo!
Essendo passato qualche anno da quel viaggio non ricordo molto dei preparativi. Una cosa che non scorderò mai però è che, essendo il volo per Lisbona in prima mattinata, decido di dormire in aeroporto la notte precedente. Naturalmente non sapevo che Ciampino chiudesse a mezzanotte circa per riaprire solo verso le cinque di mattina.
Quella notte l’ho quindi passata provando a dormire qualche ora sdraiato su una panca fuori dalla struttura, condividendo la mia sorte con qualche altro viaggiatore e alcune persone meno fortunate, le quali avrebbero fatto volentieri a meno di vivere quest’esperienza che per me fa parte del gioco dell’avventura, per loro è la quotidianità.
Comunque sono stato molto fortunato, infatti tutto questo è successo a Maggio e quindi non ho rischiato di morire congelato, dato che mai sarei andato in qualche ostello o hotel per così poche ore!

Il Portogallo in generale

Cena a base di piatti tipici: Baccalà e patate accompagnate dal vino di Porto

Una volta arrivato in Portogallo il sole ha atteso un intero giorno prima di farsi vedere e di riscaldare le strade perennemente in salita di Lisbona. L’unica certezza è che questa attesa è stata ampliamente ripagata dato che, una volta che si è fatto spazio tra le nuvole, mi ha regalato giochi di luce meravigliosi specialmente nel quartiere Alfama. Per non parlare poi dei tramonti che offre!
Il calore che si percepisce in questa striscia di terra non è solo quello legato alle condizioni atmosferiche, ma soprattutto quello dato dai rapporti umani. Difficilmente mi è capitato di incontrare un popolo accogliente e sorridente come quello portoghese, nonostante le comunicazioni fossero spesso ostacolate dal loro pessimo inglese.
Chissà se la loro cordialità è dovuta anche al fantastico Vinho do Porto, spesso abbondante nelle tavole dei locali e dei turisti che raramente rinunciano ad assaggiare questa prelibatezza.
Un consiglio che mi sento in dovere di dare è quello di non farsi ingannare dal sapore leggero del vino di Porto, questo ha infatti una gradazione alcolica che varia tra il 19% e il 22%. Un consiglio che mi sento invece di offrire è quello di farsi ingannare dal dolce sapore, assaggiare qualche specialità locale e quindi alzarsi dalla tavola sazi, brilli e soprattutto felici.
Rimanendo in tema bevande alcoliche come non nominare la Ginjinha, un liquore a base di amarena, anche questa dal sapore dolce e fruttato. Anche ora devo invitare alla prudenza, dato che dopo averla assaggiata sarà facile trovarsi a vagabondare nelle stradine arroccate in cerca di un ultimo (o penultimo) bicchierino prima di andare a dormire.
Ma passiamo ora al cibo, anche questo come i drink di ottima qualità. Il pesce naturalmente la fa da padrone, in primis il baccalà (bacalhau), che si può trovare preparato e servito in tutte le salse e per tutti i gusti. La bontà del baccalà non deve però farci rinunciare ad assaggiare gli altri piatti tipici, come il polpo o le sardine.
Se invece dopo una lunga notte di bevute ci risvegliamo al mattino con lo stomaco sofferente e cerchiamo qualche sapore delicato per fare colazione, la sceltà migliore sarà sicuramente mangiare dei “Pastel de nata“, ovvero dei pasticcini a base di pasta sfoglia e crema.
Dopo questo lunghissimo sproloquio parliamo ora di cosa vedere nelle 3 località da me visitate: Lisbona, Sintra ed Oporto.

Lisbona

Torre de Belem

Torre de Belem

Uno dei luoghi simbolo della capitale portoghese. La torre fu commissionata dal re Giovanni II nel XVI secolo come parte di un sistema di difesa. Questo sito, patrimonio dell’ UNESCO, ha avuto un ruolo chiave nell’era delle grandi scoperte.

Monumento alle scoperte

Come ho accennato prima, il Portogallo ha avuto un ruolo chiave nelle esplorazione di lontane terre allora sconosciute. Questo ha portato il tiranno Salazar, nel 1960, a dedicare agli uomini della sua terra che sono partiti alla scoperta del mondo un monumento. Sono molti i personaggi raffigurati, uno dei più celebri è sicuramente Vasco da Gama.

Rossio

Piazza del Rossio

La Praca de D. Pedro IV, conosciuta più semplicemente come Rossio, è uno dei centri nevralgici di Lisbona. Piastrellata con mattonelle di vario colore e con moti ondulanti, la piazza è dominata dalla statua dedicata a Pietro IV, primo imperatore del Brasile. In fondo alla piazza si trova il Teatro Naional D. Maria II.

Piazza del commercio

Una delle più belle piazze della città, venne costruita come simbolico punto d’ingresso a Lisbona per chi approdava dal Brasile o dal sud-est asiatico. La piazza è contornata da numerosi monumenti, a nord di essa sorge infatti l’arco de Rua Augusta, che conduce al centro della città. Sul lato orientale si trovava invece il palazzo più antico della città, Paço da Ribeira, che però è stato distrutto nel 1755 da un violento terremoto. Al centro di “Praca do Comercio” sorge una famosa statua di re Giuseppe I.

Alfama

Stradine molto colorate nel quartiere Alfama

Il quartiere secondo me più bello di Lisbona, perdersi tra le stradine di questa zona è incantevole.

Sintra

Interno della tenuta Quinta da Regaleria

Su questa città avevo delle aspettative altissime, ma devo dire che mi ha deluso. Quello che ho trovato è stato un luogo invaso dai turisti, dove qualsiasi attrazione o visita è a pagamento e i prezzi, in generale, sono altissimi. La bellezza di Sintra è comunque indiscutibile, anche se il centro storico è davvero minuscolo e visitabile in pochissimo tempo. Il palazzo Quinta da Regaleria, il cui ingresso si aggira intorno agli 8€, è fantastico e devo dire che vale assolutamente il prezzo del biglietto.

Porto

Ribeira

Prima che questa città portoghese fosse così battuta dai turisti era una città decisamente più decadente. Questa anima si può ancora trovare tra le stradine della città, specialmente nel quartiere della Ribeira, dove poco lontano dalle zone tirate a lucido per i visitatori stranieri ci sono le zone più popolari e mercantili.

Cattedrale di Porto

Enorme e bellissima, in più dal piazzale antistante la cattedrale si può godere di una vista privilegiata del centro storico della città. Non serve aggiungere altro.

Ponte Dom Luis I

Vista sul lungofiume di Porto dal ponte Dom Luis I

Questo ponte in realtà non è bellissimo, se non di sera grazie alla sua illuminazione. Se lo si attraversa, possibilmente a piedi, si possono osservare i quartieri della città che costeggiano il fiume. Questo, se non soffrite di vertigini, è molto interessante.

Capela das Almas

Sicuramente non una delle chiese più belle o grandi d’Europa, ma ha un fascino davvero particolare. Questo grazie alle maioliche decorate con una fantasia blu che la ricoprono. Peccato che sia in una delle vie più trafficate della città, quindi è praticamente impossibile scattare delle foto senza prendere altre persone oppure godersela in pace.

Conclusioni

Il Portogallo è un paese che mi ha convinto e in cui ritornerei molto volentieri. Se potessi tornare indietro nel tempo rimuoverei Sintra dal mio itinerario e cercherei una meta meno turistica, ma devo dire che avendo a disposizione così pochi giorni per un paese così ricco di attrazioni difficilmente potevo fare di meglio. Non ricordo quanto ho speso nei vari ostelli e ristoranti ma sicuramente è molto più economico che viaggiare in Italia, anche se purtroppo non è ai livelli dell’Europa dell’est.

Quasi dimenticavo, non potete non visitare i vari miradouro presenti in ogni città, dove godervi il tramonto sorseggiando una birra fresca e fumando qualche sigaretta!

 

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  80. Sandy Hoffert ha detto:

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