Viaggiare durante il COVID, alla scoperta della provincia di Viterbo

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calcata

Mai avremmo immaginato di poter essere così contenti per una piccola gita fuori porta ad un ora da casa nostra. Invece questo COVID, oltre a presentarci mille difficoltà, ci sta facendo riscoprire la bellezza nelle piccole cose, che sia una passeggiata in un parco, una birra la sera con gli amici o una giornata spesa nella provincia di Viterbo che, seppure non sia affascinante ed esotica come il Marocco o autentica come l’Albania, ci ha lasciati piacevolmente sorpresi.

Caratterizzata da numerosi piccoli borghi di origine medievale molti dei quali arroccati su montagne, resti etruschi di valenza storica rilevante, natura rigogliosa che spazia tra vallate mozzafiato e laghi di origine vulcanica, Viterbo è senza dubbio una delle migliori destinazioni nel Lazio, e forse anche in Italia, per spendere un piacevole week-end.

In questo articolo parleremo sia dei luoghi cha abbiamo visitato noi in una giornata, sia di altre destinazioni che abbiamo visitato in altre occasioni, ma che non possono non essere citati.

Calcata

All'interno del borgo di Calcata
All’interno del borgo di Calcata

Tralasciando le risate che ci ha fatto fare il nome del paese, sul fatto che nonostante sia stata chiamata così non è affatto una “cacata” o che per colpa del COVID ci sia poca gente a(c)calcata, questo paese è arroccato su una montagna di tufo e si affaccia sulla valle del fiume Treja. Davvero piacevole è stato perdersi tra le stradine strette del centro, anche se questo è visitabile in poco più di un’ora.

La visita del borgo non ci ha riservato viste su enormi monumenti, ma ci ha permesso di notare e apprezzare dettagli davvero affascinanti, passaggi stretti tra le varie stradine, portoni che conservano ancora un briciolo dell’antica bellezza che possedevano, semplici cartelli stradali. Un borgo da scoprire camminando lentamente, rigorosamente con la testa alta ed il cuore leggero.

Il nostro vagabondare è stato interrotto da una baffuta signora che più volte ci ha ripetuto di aver salvato dalla rovina alcuni angoli del paese grazie ad una sua bottega in cui produceva “opere d’arte”. Che dire, ne abbiamo apprezzato l’impegno ed il coraggio…

La più bella visita del paese si ammira però da fuori il centro, potendo osservare in tutta la bellezza dei palazzi che si innalzano ad un passo dallo strapiombo creato dalla montagna di tufo. Se avete un drone portatelo assolutamente con voi, perché foto come questa si possono catturare solo in questo modo!

Vista sul borgo di Calcata
Vista sul borgo di Calcata

Sutri

 Vista di Sutri
Vista di Sutri

Sutri, rispetto a Calcata, è molto di più un paesotto e non un piccolo borgo. Le strade ed i palazzi sono più ampi, ci sono alcuni monumenti ma non perde la graziosità del paese precedente. In questo borgo amministrato dal sindaco Vittorio Sgarbi, si trovano numerose chiese, alcuni musei e ville.

Merita sicuramente una visita la necropoli etrusca che si trova appena fuori il centro. Questa, che rappresenta il simbolo cittadino, è uno degli esempi più rilevanti di tombe rupestri di origine romana.

Continuando a parlare di resti romani non si può non nominare l’anfiteatro di Sutri, risalente ad un periodo che va dal II al I secolo e che era in grado di contenere ben 9000 persone!

Anfiteatro romano di Sutri
Anfiteatro romano di Sutri

Caprarola

Questo paese ha generato reazioni molto contrastanti tra noi di Viaggiare Insicuri. Oggettivamente oltre alla villa Farnese (che noi abbiamo trovato chiusa), ha molto poco da offrire ai visitatori. Comunque io ne ho apprezzato le stradine secondarie, i vicoli che sembrano non avere età che mi hanno in cui mi catapulto ogni volta che ascolto i versi de “La città vecchia” di Fabrizio De André.

All'interno del borgo di Caprarola
All’interno del borgo di Caprarola

Ci è dispiaciuto molto trovare la villa Farnese chiusa, è maestosa ed elegante. Inoltre dalla collina su cui è posizionata si ha una bellissima vista sul centro del borgo, mentre in lontananza si scorgono delle montagne. Per fortuna avevamo con noi il drone che ci ha permesso (anche se forse non potevamo) di dargli un’occhiata un po’ più da vicino.

Villa Farnese ripresa dal drone
Villa Farnese ripresa dal drone

Borgo fantasma di Celleno

Se davvero volete visitare una città che muore andate qui, il paese è completamente abbandonato. In pochi minuti si può girare tutto il centro, ma se ci si addentra nei vari edifici abbandonati si possono vedere esposti oggetti di un’epoca e di una tradizione ormai quasi completamente perduta.

Esposizione di Oggetti a Celleno
Esposizione di Oggetti a Celleno

Noi siamo arrivati a Celleno che ormai era buio ed eravamo gli unici turisti. Questo ci ha permesso di liberarci dai sentieri prefissati e di addentrarci in alcuni palazzi diroccati. Questa esperienza, anche se a tratti un po’ spaventosa, è stata votata da tutti noi come la più interessante di tutta la giornata!

Civita di Bagnoregio

In questo nostro tour non l’abbiamo visitata, ma come non nominare “sua maestà” Civita di Bagnoregio. La vista che si scorge da fuori il paese è mozzafiato. Il centro, popolato da soli 11 abitanti, è stupendo ed estremamente curato. Bastano queste poche parole per descrivere una delle più belle destinazioni dell’Italia intera.

Vista sul borgo di Civita di Bagnoregio
Vista sul borgo di Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita, fondata circa 2500 anni fa dagli etruschi, si trova all’interno della Valle dei Calanchi. All’interno del borgo, utilizzato come set cinematografico per numerosi film, si possono trovare alcune chiese, case medievali e vari palazzi storici.

Quello che secondo noi era l’unico difetto era l’incredibile ed inevitabile presenza di turisti, ma ora, con le restrizioni dettate dal COVID, sicuramente ce ne saranno molti di meno! E allora perché non godersi in solitaria (o quasi) quella che è una destinazione obbligatoria almeno per gli abitanti del Lazio?

 

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