Viaggio in Kosovo, cosa vedere nello stato più giovane d’Europa

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La sera prima di entrare in Kosovo ero a Tirana, ero teso, agitato. Molte persone, quasi tutte quelle con cui avevo parlato del mio viaggio, mi avevano sconsigliato di andarci. Anche sul sito viaggiaresicuri della Farnesina c’erano degli avvisi di emergenza quindi questa volta forse stato davvero esagerando.
Forse in fondo avevano ragione, il Kosovo è stato fino a pochi anni fa teatro di una guerra sanguinosa che non si è ancora risolta del tutto, non a caso una missione NATO è ancora attiva nel paese. Ma non è nel mio stile, volevo vedere con i miei occhi e solo dopo giudicare.
Comunque la mia ultima sera a Tirana passa così, tra una cena a 4€, qualche birra qualche sigaretta e sogni, desideri, paura.

Prizren, la perla dei balcani

La mattina verso le 10 prendo un’autobus (uno dei più moderni e attrezzati che abbia mai visto) che mi porta dalla capitale Albanese a Prizren, principale meta turistica del Kosovo. Volevo cominciarlo così questo viaggio, iniziando da una destinazione facile per poi addentrarmi sempre di più nel paese in caso mi fossi sentito al sicuro.
L’autobus mi lascia lungo un’autostrada dove c’è un taxi ad aspettarmi, non riesco a chiedere all’autista del bus se fosse compreso nel prezzo dato che non parlava inglese e che aveva fretta di ripartire. Già sicuro di essere stato imbrogliato e che avrei dovuto pagare molto chiedo al tassista quanto venisse la corsa, lui mi fa capire che era gratis. Sinceramente non penso che molte persone in altri posti si sarebbero comportate in questo modo, con un pollo da spennare di fronte ha preferito comportarsi correttamente invece che guadagnare qualche soldo in più, il quale avrebbe sicuramente fatto più comodo a lui che a me.
Il mio arrivo nella perla dei balcani è stato fantastico, con il taxi che mi lascia proprio di fronte al ponte Ura e gurit su cui dominava il centro storico della città, a sua volta dominato dal castello. Dopo aver goduto di quella vista per qualche minuto e aver sistemato le mie cose in ostello inizio ad esplorare il centro partendo naturalmente dalla principale attrazione, la moschea Sinan Pasha. L’interno della struttura è davvero affascinante, ma non è da meno l’esterno della moschea, dove c’è un cortile frequentato dai locali ed estremamente carino, arredato con qualche fontana, delle panchine e dei negozi in cui è possibile acquistare dei souvenir di questo paese così poco turistico.
Continuo ad esplorare il centro di Prizren e più lo studio più me ne innamoro anche se a rovinare i miei sentimenti di estremo ottimismo e gioia ci pensa la visita di alcune chiese ortodosse danneggiate e profanate durante e dopo la guerra che si è combattuta negli anni novanta.
Verso l’ora del tramonto mi inizio ad avviare verso il castello (Kalaja e Prizrenit), dove arrivo dopo aver camminato in delle stradine in condizioni davvero pessime, ma forse sono stato io ad aver sbagliato strada 🙂 ! Dal castello si può godere di una fantastica vista sulla città e su un monte di cui non ricordo il nome, con il sole che si addormenta proprio alle loro spalle.
La sera torno nel punto in cui mi ha lasciato il taxi al mattino, ma con le luci della sera e con il canto del muezzin è tutto molto più affascinante ed evocativo.

Pristina

Chi c’è stato lo potrà senza dubbio confermare, Pristina è una delle capitali più brutte del mondo. Ha pochissimo da offrire ai turisti, le uniche attrazioni che mi vengono in mente sono un’orrenda statua dedicata a Bill Clinton per aver bombardato Belgrado, un anonimo stradone con tanti negozi ai lati, la famosa ed esteticamente discutibile scritta “NEWBORN”, qualche chiesa, la biblioteca nazionale (anche se inserita nella lista degli edifici più brutti del mondo dal Telegraph ha il suo fascino) e molte statue dedicate ai terroristi dell’UCK.
Ho comunque passato nella capitale kosovara 4 notti, ho infatti utilizzato due giorni per vedere la città (immeritati) ed altri due per fare delle visite di un giorno a Peć e Gračanica.

  • Pristina1

Peć (Peje in albanese)

Dire che su questa città dalla storia estremamente travagliata avevo delle aspettative altissime è riduttivo, qui dovevo trovare uno dei più bei bazaar dell’intero Kosovo e soprattutto il famosissimo monastero patriarcale appartenente alla chiesa ortodossa serba.
Il bazaar si è rivelato in realtà un’accozzaglia di robaccia cinese che ha fatto perdere al mercato l’antico fascino che lo ha reso famoso, seppur inserito in un ambiente piacevole. Si sa, in viaggio certe volte si rimane stupefatti dalla bellezza di un luogo, ma altre volte, come è successo a me vedendo questo bazaar che ha perso tutta la propria autenticità per riempirsi di prodotti “Nike” o “Adidas”, si rimane delusi. Solo che questa volta mi è dispiaciuto di più che in altre occasioni.
Il monastero invece, dove sono arrivato dopo una camminata di circa 30 minuti fuori dalla città, mi ha convinto. Una volta superata la “frontiera” (all’ingresso è previsto infatti un velocissimo controllo passaporti) non resta che ammirare prima le gole del Rug, dove risiede il monastero, e poi il complesso più importante per i serbi ortodossi. All’interno della struttura, risalente al 13 secolo, si respira storia, arte e soprattutto (cosa non scontata in un paese martoriato dalla guerra) pace.

  • Pec1

Gračanica

In questa cittadina a meno di un’ora da Pristina ho passato il mio ultimo giorno in Kosovo. Conosco benino la storia di questo stato, soprattutto dei conflitti da cui è stato segnato. Proprio per questo, vedere nel centro della città sventolare la bandiera tricolore della minoranza del paese, notare che le insegne fossero tutte in serbo e leggere “Pljeskavica” scritto in cirillico mi ha fatto davvero specie.
Il centro del villaggio non merita forse neanche una visita a meno che non si abbia del tempo da buttare. La ragione della mia visita è stato infatti un’altro monastero, fondato nel 1321 dal re serbo Stefano Milutin e bla bla bla…
Vi assicuro che è bello, andateci.
Prima di riavviarmi verso Pristina decido di fare una camminata di circa mezz’ora per raggiungere il sito archeologico di Ulpiana. A darmi il benvenuto in questo luogo ci sono i due guardiani che, come per magia, appena arrivo si svegliano dal sonno e si tirano su dalle panchine su cui riposavano. Cordialmente mi fanno cenno di proseguire il mio tour. Non devono essere abituati a vedere turisti da quelle parti. Non essendo un’esperto di archeologia o materie simili il sito non mi ha colpito, ma non mi permetto di giudicarlo dato che sono completamente ignorante in materia.

  • gracanica1

Tiriamo le somme

Partendo dal presupposto che non penso ci siano nazioni che possano essere interamente etichettate come brutte, va comunque considerato che il Kosovo sicuramente non è lo stato più ricco di monumenti o luoghi d’interesse. Ma nonostante questo io consiglio al 100% di visitare questo luogo, ricco di cultura e di storia che varia da quella romana a quella jugoslava, passando per quella ottomana. Consiglio di visitare il Kosovo per vincere i pregiudizi e per rispondere a chi ti ammonisce e ti dice che è un luogo poco sicuro. Consiglio di visitare il Kosovo per essere un viaggiatore, per non essere un turista.

 

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