Serbia, non solo bombe e alcool… (Parte 1)

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Serbia, non solo bombe e alcool… (Parte 1)

Srbija, moj ljubav (Serbia, amore mio) … Oggettivamente se avessi scritto questa frase in qualsiasi altra lingua, magari in francese, avrebbe suonato molto meglio, ma perché non utilizzare proprio il serbo, idioma che rispecchia pienamente l’animo di quel popolo: fiero, duro ma non freddo come appare.
Tornando alla Serbia, con questo primo articolo di una serie vorrei raccontarvi la mia testimonianza su uno stato, su un popolo che ho conosciuto abbastanza e che mi ha fatto innamorare, sebbene sia vittima di numerosi pregiudizi anche a causa della sua storia travagliata.
Partiremo ovviamente dalla sua capitale, parlando di luoghi conosciuti e di alcuni che lo sono un po’ meno. Nei prossimo articoli invece parleremo delle altre città e luoghi di interesse che si trovano in Serbia e della sua cultura gastronomica, senza tralasciare ciò che i serbi amano in maniera spropositata, l’alcool.

Sicuramente questo stato non è la destinazione più ambita del mondo, ma se volete avere un’esperienza di viaggio autentica vi consiglio di visitare la Serbia, uno dei pochi stati d’Europa che secondo me ancora non è stato divorato dal turismo di massa. Vi lascio anche questo link in cui parliamo di 5 stati da visitare per un viaggio “off the beaten path”.

Belgrado (Бeoгpaд)

Capitale della Serbia (fino al 1992 della Jugoslavia), centro culturale, economico e turistico della nazione, Belgrado è inoltre una delle più grandi città dell’Europa sud-orientale. Al contrario di quello che si può pensare la vecchia “Singidunum” ha numerosi luoghi d’interesse, alcuni dei quali di rilievo a livello mondiale.

Se si vuole parlare di cosa vedere a Belgrado non si può che iniziare dalla “Belgrade fortress” e del parco Kalemegdan, il più grande, bello e ricco di attrazioni di tutta la città. Oltre alla fortezza di cui si possono ammirare principalmente i muri di cinta, la principale attrazione e simbolo della città è sicuramente “il vincitore” (conosciuta tra i serbi con il nome di “uomo nudo”), statua che si innalza guardando i due imponenti fiumi che attraversano questa città, il Sava e naturalmente il Danubio (i quali si congiungono abbracciando l’isoletta “Veliko ratno ostrvo”), e “Novi Beograd”, la parte più “moderna” della città.

Fortezza di Belgrado
Fortezza di Belgrado

Un piccolo consiglio, concedete a questa parte di città le ore del tramonto, dietro alla statua del vincitore troverete una collinetta da cui si può ammirare tutto quello che vi ho descritto prima da una posizione privilegiata. Se poi riuscite a farlo in compagnia di una ragazza sappiate che quella sera sarà sicuramente vostra (l’ho testato e funziona 🙂 ).

Tramonto su Novi Beograd e sui fiumi Sava e Danubio
Tramonto su Novi Beograd e sui fiumi Sava e Danubio

Vi risparmio decine e decine di righe che descrivono tutto quello che si può vedere nel parco Kalemegdan, ve ne farò semplicemente una breve lista: la torre dell’orologio, un piccolo mausoleo, l’istituto per la protezione del patrimonio, una struttura adibita alle esposizioni e il museo della guerra.

La torre dell'orologio
La torre dell’orologio

Ci tengo invece a spendere due parole per una chiesa e una cappella che si trovano all’interno del parco ma in una posizione che non rende onore alla graziosa bellezza di questi due edifici. La prima di cui vi voglio parlare è la chiesa “Ruzica”, chiesa dalle dimensioni modeste ma che presenta una caratteristica interessante, ovvero che i lampadari posti all’interno sono stati realizzati fondendo pezzi di ottone dell’artiglieria della prima guerra mondiale. Sono stati utilizzati anche alcuni pezzi interi, come proiettili e sciabole.
La cappella di santa Petka, anche questa di modeste dimensioni, è interessante per le sue decorazioni interne, realizzate tutte usando tecniche musive (fatte a mosaico insomma, però detto in maniera più figa). All’interno della cappella è possibile acquistare dell’acqua che si dice sia benedetta, io per curiosità l’ho comprata e l’ho bevuta una sola volta… Beh quella sera è stata l’unica volta in vita mia in cui “ho fatto cilecca”, quindi vedete voi!!

La seconda attrazione che non potete assolutamente perdere è la Улица Кнез Михаилова (Ulica knez Mihailova), anche conosciuta come la strada del principe Mihailo. Questa strada, un tempo sede degli appartamenti della piccola borghesia belgradese, oggi è uno dei principali centri di aggregazione della città. Ai suoi lati, oltre ad alcuni edifici istituzionali sono presenti anche numerosi bar e ristoranti “acchiappa turisti”. Nei primi anni in cui ho frequentato la Serbia questa strada era anche piena zeppa di numerosi chioschi per souvenir, ma soprattutto era animata da numerosi artisti di strada che allietavano le passeggiate. Purtroppo, negli ultimi anni in cui sono stato lì questa caratteristica si è persa, ma qualche temerario resiste ancora e merita di essere ascoltato.

Un’altra strada che merita di essere assolutamente visitata è “Skadarska” situata nel quartiere bohémien “Skadarlija”. Inizialmente questa parte della città era conosciuta come il quartiere zigano, ma all’inizio del secolo scorso ha cominciato ad essere popolata da scrittori, pittori ed artisti vari. Ancora oggi i ristoranti situati nella Skadarska sono di fascia alta, dove si mangia tra il lusso, serviti e riveriti con la dolce compagnia di musicisti dal vivo. Io ci ho mangiato più volte, dato che con un po’ di attenzione sono riuscito a spendere per un pasto completo anche meno di 15€. Se invece non siete disposti a spendere questa cifra, a pochi passi da questi ristoranti di lusso si trova “To Je To”, un piccolo ristorante che prepara cucina bosniaca e dove si mangia davvero con pochi spicci. Inoltre la cameriera che ci lavora è davvero gentile (e bella).

Sapevate che a Belgrado si trova una delle chiese ortodosse più grandi del mondo? Ah no? Allora dovete assolutamente andarci per ammirare il tempio di san Sava (hram svetog Save)!! La chiesa, seppur ancora in costruzione, è fantastica ed imponente. Gli interni non sono ancora completati, ma è visitabile una cripta a cui si accede scendendo poche scale. Solo questa merita una visita alla chiesa!

Se si vuole andare dalla Knez Mihailova alla Skadarska si dovrà quasi inevitabilmente passare per la Piazza della Repubblica (Trg Republike). Non ho molto da dire su questa piazza, è bella, c’è in mezzo una statua di uno a cavallo che non so chi sia e il museo nazionale che non ho mai avuto l’occasione di visitare… però andateci che è carina!

Nikola Tesla, fenomenale scienziato non apprezzato come meriterebbe e soprattutto eterno conteso tra croati e serbi (ha vissuto la maggior parte della sua vita negli Stati Uniti). A Belgrado comunque c’è un museo a lui dedicato, piccolo ma che vi consiglio di visitare. Quando l’ho visitato io, ormai molti anni fa, si poteva scegliere se entrare gratuitamente o far parte di un tour a pagamento (dal prezzo irrisorio) e vedere i vari marchingegni da lui progettati in funzione. Naturalmente io ho optato per il tour gratuito, ma dato che mi sono incontrato insieme ad un tour mi sono imbucato e mi sono goduto tutte le spiegazioni e dimostrazioni gratuitamente.
Purtroppo ho perduto tutte le foto del museo.

Un altro museo che si deve assolutamente visitare è quello della storia della Jugoslavia con l’annessa casa dei fiori. Il museo della storia jugoslava è importantissimo per immergersi e per conoscere a fondo un periodo che nel bene o nel male è stato importante ed intenso, ma che soprattutto in Serbia se ne va dal ricordo delle persone con fatica.

Esterno del museo della storia della Jugoslavia
Esterno del museo della storia della Jugoslavia

La casa dei fiori è il luogo voluto da Josip Broz Tito in persona per riposare dopo la sua morte. Oltre a poter contemplare la tomba del maresciallo è possibile vedere numerosi oggetti personali e regali portati dai vari capi di stato che lo hanno incontrato. Sebbene non sia molto conosciuto in Italia, questo complesso è molto visitato, nei primi anni duemila circa ottanta mila persone all’anno andavano a rendere omaggio a uno dei personaggi più rilevanti della storia del secondo dopoguerra.

Questa è una chicca che difficilmente troverete in qualche altro articolo, ma andate sul monte Avala. Trovate il modo, so che non è facile essendo collegato male con i mezzi pubblici dal centro di Belgrado e trovandosi a 18km dalla città, ma ne vale la pena. Ne vale la pena non tanto per il parco memoriale dedicato alle vittime della seconda guerra mondiale o per il monumento ai veterani di guerra sovietici, ma andateci per vedere il monumento all’eroe sconosciuto (il nostro milite ignoto) e soprattutto per salire sulla torre Avala. Questa torre, alta ben 202 metri, è stata costruita nel lontano 1965 e fino al 1999 ha svolto il ruolo di torre televisiva. Lo ha svolto fino al 1999 perché in quell’anno, durante i bombardamenti che hanno colpito ciò che rimaneva della Jugoslavia e Belgrado, la NATO ha pensato bene distruggerla.

Nel 2008 comunque sono stati completati i lavori di restauro e ora è possibile salire sulla torre e ammirare, oltre all’intera città, una parte importante del territorio serbo, dalla Vojvodjna al distretto di Sumadija. Anche in questo caso l’ingresso ha un prezzo davvero irrisorio e come vedrete dalle foto si può godere di una vista che davvero può togliere il fiato. Naturalmente sarete a 200 metri di altezza, quindi se soffrite di vertigini non andate. Come per il parco Kalemegdan consiglio di andarci al tramonto con una bella ragazza!

Tramonto dalla cima della torre Avala
Tramonto dalla cima della torre Avala

Tutti quanti, chi più e chi meno, sappiamo ciò che è successo nei balcani negli anni 90… Beh se allora ci stupivano le fortissime spinte separatiste che avevano stati a volte così piccoli e culturalmente simili tra loro non posso non sorprenderci le richieste degli abitanti del quartiere Zemun, quella che una volta città era una città indipendente e importante dal 1934 è diventata una semplice municipalità di Belgrado.

Qui si possono trovare alcune chiese non troppo interessanti, ma se siete disposti a fare una bella camminata e a salire sul colle più alto del quartiere (Gardoš) troverete una bellissima torre d’avvistamento, chiamata Torre del millennio (Kula sibinjanin janka) costruita dal 1896 dagli ungheresi costruita per celebrare i 1000 anni di presenza in Pannonia. Anche da qui è possibile ammirare la congiunzione tra Sava e Danubio e godersi il tramonto con vista sul centro di Belgrado.

Torre del millennio
Torre del millennio

So che suonerà strano, ma andate a vedere i segni dei bombardamenti della NATO del 1999. Non è un voler fare un turismo dell’orrore come chi a pochi giorni dai più svariati disastri va a curiosare. Qui si tratta di edifici distrutti venti anni fa e lasciati così appositamente per ricordare, per testimoniare quello che la parola guerra vuol dire. Oramai questa parola si è avvicinata moltissimo alla nostra cultura, la sentiamo nominare quotidianamente nei telegiornali o nei film o addirittura la facciamo noi per passare tempo con i videogiochi. Ma per quanto la parola guerra si sia avvicinata a noi camminare tra i palazzi che ancora presentano i segni dei bombardamenti non può lasciarvi indifferenti. D’altronde, come ha scritto Tony Wheeler in un suo libro, un conto è leggere statistiche sulla povertà di uno sperduto paese africano, un conto è stare sul bordo della strada a masticare polvere mentre vi passano a fianco delle Mercedes in formazione serrata.

Edificio bombardato nel 1999 dalla NATO
Edificio bombardato nel 1999 dalla NATO

I palazzi di cui vi parlo si trovano ad un passo dal centro di Belgrado, esattamente nella strada che collega la stazione degli autobus alla “Piazza Slavija”. Un altro “rudere di rilievo” si trova attaccato al “Tasmajdan park” (altro luogo da visitare insieme all’adiacente chiesa di san Marco), questo palazzo un tempo era la sede della RTS (Radio Televisione della Serbia) mentre ora è un luogo di riflessione e di commozione per i parenti delle persone che hanno perduto la vita al suo interno o per chi è in grado di versare una lacrima per la sofferenza altrui.

Come vi ho scritto nel titolo dell’articolo la Serbia non è solo alcool, ma oggettivamente questo ha un ruolo importante nella vita della maggior parte dei serbi, e allora perché non parlarne!
Prima di tutto dovete sapere che la Lonely Planet ha inserito Belgrado nella top ten delle capitali mondiali del divertimento. In qualsiasi condizione i serbi infatti sono disposti a fare festa, non importa se il giorno dopo avranno una durissima giornata lavorativa o se la notte all’esterno ci sono -10°C o se in pieno giorno ce ne sono 35°C. Qualsiasi sia il vostro modo preferito di vivere la movida sappiate che qui troverete sicuramente ciò che cercate, dai semplici pub alle serate folli nei vari “klub”, che siano essi all’ultimo piano di un palazzone comunista o su un battello che si muove al ritmo del Danubio.

Festa a Dragosevac, paese nel cuore della Serbia
Festa a Dragosevac, paese nel cuore della Serbia

Se invece siete curiosi di scoprire il lato più sensibile e dolce degli abitanti del luogo dovete assolutamente andare in una “Kafana”, dove sicuramente troverete a tarda notte delle persone che (non si sa se più ubriache o sudate) vi inviteranno a cantare a squarciagola delle dolci cantilene che narrano a modo loro di gioie, di dolori o di speranze umili.

 

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